The final image needs to be created, or 'made' as Ansel Adams wrote. The RAW file contains all the light information to make a great print, it just needs to be brought to life, interpreted, 'seen'. LightroomCC is just one of a number of image processing packages, but my favourite. The newest version backs everything up to the cloud so I can review and tweak photos anywhere. Its perfect for photography on the go.
I use a planned approach to LightroomCC to minimise duplication, maximise my chance of creating a great image and gain consistent results. This my approach, don't feel you have to stick to it.
Import and Review
"Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop." Ansel Adams
Processing
LIGHT
COLOR
EFFECT
These are powerful tools, be creative but careful
DETAIL
Linear Gradient/ Healing Brush
Go back and fine tune any settings.
Adjust systematically but imaginatively - don’t over do it.
I use a planned approach to LightroomCC to minimise duplication, maximise my chance of creating a great image and gain consistent results. This my approach, don't feel you have to stick to it.
Import and Review
- import photos into a new LightroomCC 'album'' to make it easier to review new images
- use the reject flag ('X' key) to identify:
- obvious 'fails' - pockets shots, poor composition
- poor exposure (look at the photograph and use the histogram top right - if the lines end suddenly at the left or right hand ends you are missing chunks of light information 'clipping')
- poor sharpness (use the spacebar to see at full resolution)
- compare similar photos and select the best – reject the others… just do it!
- delete rejected photos permanently - use the filter on the search bar to select the rejected photos, in grid view 'select all' and alt/ option + delete
"Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop." Ansel Adams
Processing
- click on the 'Edit' menu (press E)
- you now have a choice to process the RAW file from scratch or use 'Presets' to give you a head start
- to use 'Presets' click on the button at the bottom of the menu and hover over a range of presets to see what you like. Click on the preset to apply the changes, this can be undone at any time.
- for those wanting to start from scratch you can work down the following menu:
LIGHT
- shadows - bringing them up improves detail lost in darker shadows
- highlights - bringing them down will bring more life into bright skies
- whites and blacks - hold down the alt/ option key while sliding to the right (whites), or left (blacks), to find the point at which you start to lose light information. Adjust the whites to give the most pleasing result up to the point at which you start to lose information, do the same for the blacks
- exposure and contrast - adjust if required
- tone curve - this affects the whole of the image - to increase mid tone contrast, the area where the eye is most sensitive to light, 'grab' the line at the bottom and drop it a little, and the line at the top and lift it a little
COLOR
- temperature - landscape photos often require a bit of warmth (slide right)
- tint - adjust to remove colour casts, often done at the end of processing
- vibrance - increases the saturation of more subdued colours bringing landscapes to life
- saturation - affects the whole image - use with care
- color mixer - I tend to use this OR split toning to enhance the image, it is great for bringing out specific colours
- hue - adjusts the tone of a specific colour - I rarely use
- saturation - adjust up to increase the depth of a colour
- luminance - great for lightening or darkening specific colours e.g. grass (lighter), blue skies (darker)
EFFECT
These are powerful tools, be creative but careful
- clarity - increases edge contrast - great for emphasising detail in the foreground
- dehaze - increases contrast and saturation in lighter area - very powerful - don't over-do
- vignette - I tend to use a little, -5 to -10, it draws they eye to the centre of the image
- split toning - gives a tint to the highlights and shadows, very effective if used with care
- try colours at opposite ends of the colour wheel e.g. yellow highlights and blue shadows
- avoid over saturation, I use around 30-50% most times
- adjust the balance between the shadows and highlights
DETAIL
- sharpening - click on the left pointing arrow across from 'sharpening' to reveal the menu
- masking - hold down the alt/ option key while moving the slider to see what is being sharpened, do not sharpen clouds or rolling fields, I use around 60-90%
- sharpening - if the mask is correct I use 150
- radius and detail I rarely change
- noise reduction/ color noise reduction - not needed if you have not overdone the adjustments above
Linear Gradient/ Healing Brush
- linear gradient - use to correct any outstanding issues in the sky e.g. exposure, dehaze
- healing brush - use to remove any unwanted branches, blemishes or distractions
Go back and fine tune any settings.
Adjust systematically but imaginatively - don’t over do it.